For years, I have been testing and comparing steam rooms independently to find the best steam generator that will hold up and meet the specs the manufacturers claim.

The steam generators I try to pick out for people will have the driest steam with the highest fluence and output while not being too noisy and energy efficient.

The way I go about this can be seen in my videos (see my seeing is believing page).
Many people are overbuying and the steam room gets too hot and they can’t enjoy the session while others get upset their is not enough steam and the steam quality is subpar.

My comprehensive field testes should help you pick out the best steam. I try to give clear and informative explanations on how each steam generator separates itself from each other. I do not accept manufacturers advertising until I have reviewed it. I do not have favorites or pull any punches. I have the good the bad and the so-so on each company. You can pick the steam generator that best fits your need and budget when you know the differences.

Things to Consider:

Fluence:
​Do you want the perfect steam you want that is dry and very hot but just not enough or do you want tons of steam like a commercial steam room at the gym. Many of the steam generators can have high fluence and those with higher wattage and output can even have very high fluence but this does not mean the steam will have a high dryness or a high latent heat index. Its kinda like having huge loud speakers for your home stereo that the sound fills up the whole room but the sound quality sucks. Fluence with very dry steam is very expensive. This is probably a reason Thermosol generators cost what they do and the cheap ones you get on Ebay that have the same output cost what they do.

Noise:
​Some of these steam generators are noisy but some have a pitch that is annoying to almost everyone that hears it. The cheap steam generators work great and have tons of steam output but the wetness and noise makes people want to return them once they hear them. Some steamers have a higher gauge frame to help dampen the sound. Also the steam head makes a difference too. Different steam heads make different sounds. I know of some really good ones that are quiet and have a more baritone sound.

Comfort:
Some people feel uncomfortable after 10 minutes in some steam rooms while in others they can go in for 45 minutes with a few showers in between. They just feel good. The latent heat index plays the biggest part in this. It is much easer to relax in a steam room when its not as wet and muggy. With some when you open the door the steam that comes out the top of the door will make a cloud outside the steam room and it will just linger. Other steam generators make steam that will immediately dissipate within a second of opening the door.

Components:
​Some steam generators get noisier over time. Just because they are quiet or produce dryer steam the components are bunk and they steam gets wetter as it ages. The steam rooms with higher priced components will always cost more. You can get a cheap steam generator on Ebay or somewhere from companies that I have never heard of. Nearly every time someone calls me up and asks why their steam generator is not working and wants me to troubleshoot it I usually never heard of that brand. About 9 out of 10 calls its always some cheap Chinese import brand they paid a few hundred bucks for. Very rarely is it one of the higher end brands.

Warranty:
​This is a big one. If someone breaks, who is going to pay for shipping and getting it fixed and put back together again. Many times people call me and they ship it back and the manufacturer won’t fix it and charges the customer to fix it because it was not a “manufacturers defect”. Most consumers believe the sales rep when they say it was the customers fault with some technical story on how they broke it. Almost any situation can turned around to get out of the steam generator warranty. Make sure you get everything on paper when you buy so you know for sure who is responsible for this or that. Also, if you don’t like the steam or it is too powerful or not enough steam they usually won’t let you return it without a restocking fee if they do at all.

Price:
​Some steam generators are more expensive than others because the prices are inflated for dealers to make a profit and others are priced according to their components and warranties. There are some really good steamers that are cheap and are high performance but the warranty is not as good. All steam generators will break down and need to be fixed at one point in time. The higher quality generators will cost more and will usually have longer warranties. I will say that the better generators are found in well known specialty stores but the prices are higher since the stores have to mark them up. It really comes down to wanting a brand name generator or a similar quality generator that may or may not have the same warranty. Having a good warranty that the actually back up make the price of the generator go way up.

All of the steam generators I promote are good. The question is, “which one is the best one for you?” If you are not sure of the answer, take my steam quiz below.

These questions should help isolate all steam-related issues. When I call you I will go over your answers and help you pick out a generator based on your answers. I will NEVER tell you which one you buy or trash talk any other brand to help sell.

High Pressure Steam Generators vs Low Pressure vs Open Tank
So, the higher pressure steam generators (Mr. Steam and Thermasol) will always cost more than a lower pressure steam generator. The cheaper Chinese imports cannot withstand the higher pressure over time so they are made to work at lower pressures but the downside is they leak a lot of water in the steam making it a muggier, more humid steam. This is the obvious reason that the higher pressure steam generators will have higher end components but the downside that some people don’t like is it is louder and creates a whistle that many people don’t like. But, the steam quality over the lower pressure type makes up for the louder noise for most people. The open tank types work at 1 ata (atmospheric pressure) and are a night and day difference in quietness. For those that have been to Equinox, Ritz Carton and Four Seasons hotels, these are the places that have the open tanks. If you go to the manufacturer’s websites they usually have a list of places where you can experience their brands. I urge everyone to experience wet steam from the lower pressure steam generators and the louder higher pressure ones and save the open tank for last. The open tanks have the driest steam and the least delay in steam cycles. I hate waiting for steam to come on. Just because the room is hot with no steam is not the same thing and throwing water on the sensor will kick it back on but this just make muggier steam since the steam gets condensed and falls to the floor and its a never ending cycle once the sensor is tripped.

Loudness complaints – I don’t even want to complain about how the high pressure cooker type steam generators have a loud whistle sound. The low pressure ones are quieter but they make wetter more damp steam that doesn’t linger as long and drops to the floor quicker and there are longer delays where you have to wait for the next steam cycle. The open tank models are the quietest but are also the most expensive, even retails more than Thermasol and Mr. Steam. A 9kw model that has an open tank with 11 foot curled up heaters can retails for 3500 to 5400 while the a lower end model costs 100 dollars per watt. So, a 9kw generator imported from China is easily found on the internet for under 900 dollars. The open tank type costs 6 times as much but for those that want something very quiet that you don’t have to scream over the loud noise this is the only type I have found that is quiet. The lower pressure models are quieter but have a much muggier steam than the generators that can handle higher pressure like the Thermasol or the Mr. Steam. The more vapor it has the more of a whistle it has, that high pitch sound as the water tries to come out. Again, for those that can afford the open tank type, this is the quietest type. The open tank generators are the quietest since there is less water trying to squeeze out and the dry vapor can come out with ease.

I use my stethoscope on steam heads. If you steam has this loud whistle and wave sound, it is not going to give quality dry steam and is leaking out unvaporized water and this is going to give off a high latent heat index. The first session may be nice but the 2nd steam session going forward will only become muggier and muggier until the room is oversaturated with too much moisture in the air where it becomes uncomfortable.

Steam Drop Problems
I compared all the different generators hooked up to the same shower and I found out which steam generators produce steam with faster or slower drop rates. The really cheap ones that make the wettest steam that has more water moisture in the steam had the highest drop rate. This is the problem when the room stays hot from the latent heat index keeps the room hot when nearly all the steam is gone. I stopped selling the lower pressure steam generators way before I did this test. These really cheap generators are enticing for many people since they can get just say a 9kw generator for 900 dollars. Yes, they still have a great warranty but there is very little stress on the generator since it works at such low pressure. The quality of this steam is a 4 out of 10 compared to the open tank models have have very dry steam.

When we ran the open tank generator in the steam shower, the green laser test passed nearly 60% more of the room than the low pressure models and about 40% more than the higher pressure types like the Mr. Steam and Thermasol. I urge everyone to buy a 5 dollar green laser pen on Ebay and test their steam and see the rate of how the steam drops to the floor once the generator stops making steam during the session. Those that want to experience an open tank with their laser pen will see the difference between wet and very dry steam that the vapor lingers instead of clumps together and become muggy.

Fan test – another test to see if you have wet steam:
If you put a battery powered outdoor weatherproof resistant fan in the steam room and turn it up on high in a wet type steam room it will almost feel like the steam is burning you. If you do this in a room with dry steam, there is very little humidity and I won’t feel that horrible feeling like the wet steam blowing on me at high speeds. Dry steam is much more tolerable. If am going to do a steam session after someone else, usually the steam has already started dripping from the ceiling. A quick fan session quickly condenses all the steam and I can start with a fresh session. The steam quality is actually way better after the stagnant steam has removed. Note: The first time the generator turns on from an empty steam room it is always going to be dryer but after a few cycles is when the latent heat index kicks in and the walls are hot and the steam is muggy and uncomfortable and the steam sticks to the walls and ceiling causing that drippiness.

I use my fan to make my steam session super intense. I keep the fan on the entire time. Having a fan with a wind velocity heats my core up over 3 times as fast as just sitting their without the fan.

For those that want to see what a fan would be like have someone take a towel and do this in the steam room and you will see how quickly it gets hot.

Delayed vs Constant (continuous) Steam
I have eliminated nearly all the brands that I used to sell on my first site to 3 brands now. I will recommend Steamist for people that cannot afford Mr. Steam, Thermasol, or Steamcore. If someone really wants dry steam and low noise and continuous steam then there is only once choice from these 3 brands but I have to be careful since most people are on a budget and get sticker shock if they wanted to spend 2000 and the one that matches all their needs costs more. I do have scratch and dents models that the manufacturers let me have cheaper. I also get access to returns when someone buys the wrong Killowatt size and needs to get a size smaller or bigger. I get very deep discounts on these. So, when someone wants the delayed steam, this is the type that has one boiling tank, usually high pressure, and has the longest delay time. The Thermasol has the 2nd least delayed time based on the steam shower tests we did when we had all the different models hooked up. The Thermasol compared to Mr. Steam…. I get asked which one is better nearly every time people are comparing these two. Neither is better or worse. It depends on what type of steam someone wants. 50% of the people want the delayed type. 50% want constant steam. And some people want dry steam in the room almost the entire time. I urge people fill out my questionnaire and I will recommend the brand based on your answers. The open generators making the driest steam should have a maximum of 4 to 5 minutes of steam pause while the vapor lingers without falling so quick making the room hot without steam. The Thermasol is also considered as constant steam but it had longer than a 4 minute pause. There has to be enough delay time so the steam can fall to the floor and fresh steam won’t cluster together with the old steam. Please, give the moisture enough time to fall to the floor without splashing water on the sensor. This will kick it on but makes a very muggy steam.

Cold Spots vs Hot Spots
This is a big problem with steam generators. Most people who are research steam generators usually call the first place they see on the internet on Google and call up and get talked out of what they were originally looking for and the dealer tries to sell them something cheap. (If you google right now I bet the top 3 advertisers are trying to sell cheap Chinese imports and trying to tell you that Thermasol or the other USA made brands are more expensive and you are paying for just the name. This is BS. I tested each model and there is a huge difference between brands that sell for 100 dollars per kilowatt while the higher end brands can cost up to 600 dollars per kilowatt. So, since the topic of cold spots and hot spots rarely comes up from dealers, it needs to be talked about. Some people have 9 and 10 foot ceilings and they will be in for a surprise when the realize that buying a generator that makes too wet of steam that the heat rises way to the top and their lower body gets the cold spots. Their area around the feet is cold and there is very little steam. The point where the green laser pen will stop shining completely to the other side of the wall is when cold spots end. If the steam is very wet and has lower dryness rating it can cause more cold spots. With some steam rooms, you can’t even put your back to the wall without a towel first or it will be so hot it can sting you. With other brands, with a lower latent heat index with less water moisture in the air, it is comfortable to sit back. For those that have 8 foot ceilings there is rarely a problem with cold spots. But, if the person gets a size too large it can have so many hot spots that it can burn the nose just to breath in the steam. That is not good either. Many people like to upsize their generator. If someone is getting a non open type tank it is usually better to not upsize it. The drier the steam with the lower latent heat index it is possible with certain figurations to upsize without sacrificing steam quality. For those that want really intense steam like the type I talk about when I go to my sweat lodges, please contact me so you know ahead of time what to expect before you buy. I will tell you if upsizing is appropriate or not. 80% of the people who want to upsize should not upsize based on their room configuration.

Wrong Size Steam Generators
If the wrong size is bought the problem is that about 20% of the people buy one size too small and about 30% of the people who are just about to buy a steam generator from me and requesting a price think the size they were told to get is the right size. The reason why so many people get told to get a slightly larger kilowatt size is because just in case there is not enough steam or it is too mild, the salesperson does not want to get a return and have to deal with the trouble. So, if someone really needed a 9kw, many people are sold a 10 or 10.5 kw size. The problem with this is the steam gets saturated in the room because there is too much steam and at first during the session it is fine but after the next few cycles come on and when the walls are hot, this is when the latent heat builds up and the steam clusters together since it is putting out too much than the room can hold and the steam starts to have a fast drop rate (see my drop rate complaint page). For those that want a higher intense steam I urge people to look into the generators that have the driest steam that have the lowest latent heat index. The models with the open tanks are the only types that I recommend if someone wants to upsize. Since adding an extra 1 or 2 kilowatts to the steam generator, as long as the vapor is dry with that low latent heat, it is rarely a problem. But, if getting a low pressure type (the Chinese imports are usually the low pressure closed tank type), these would not be good since they put out so much moisture and upsizing the generator can cause the steam to shut off too quick and people are sitting there like idiots waiting for the next steam cycle since they made a purchase based on getting a cheap price on cheaply made import.

If buying a size too small, just say you really needed a 9kw steam generator but were told to get a 7.5kw generator, the steam will stay on longer since it may not ever get hot enough for the sensor to kick off the steam. But, when the tank is out of steam there will be long periods of time where there is no steam. This is the delay time that most people complain about. I urge people to not go by the sizing charts unless they really want to go by that 100%. Open tank steam generators and closed tank lower and higher pressure types cannot all go by the same sizing chart. With this site, it is different than my first site where I had all the brands, even the ones I would recommend to someone who was on a strict budget. With this site, I will only recommend brands that I know people like and I don’t have to worry about someone calling back and complaining about the steam. Mr. Steam, Saunacore, and Thermasol have been around since the beginning of when steam generators came out. They all sell globally and there steam is better than all the other brands I have reviewed. Of these 3 brands, one type has 2 tanks, one has an open tank, and the other has only one tank. When I know what type of steam you want, I will recommend the brand and kilowatt size that matches your answers. Take my new steam quiz here.

Wet steam
Wet steam is not comfortable steam after the room gets saturated with steam and moisture. Once the moisture in the wet steam builds up, the moisture starts to clump to the vapor steam and this totally messes up the dry vapor. This won’t happen during the first session or two but once the room gets hot and the walls get hot, this is the worst thing for unvaporized moisture coming out of the steam head. (See my videos how I test wet steam and you see how this is measured. I use stethoscopes and just listening to the high pitch whistle tells me immediately that their is too much moisture coming out and not vaporized steam. This is obvious on the low pressure type steam generators that are usually imported from China. I had enough problems with these and returns that I avoid them all together even if someone wants one and is all someone can afford. I know the headaches I am going to have with this customer down the road. I also do the paper towels tests to test for too wet of steam. I do salt tests too with salt rocks under the steam head. The most obvious complaint of wet steam is the drippiness factor. It is so annoying having wet steam and having every 10 seconds a drop of steam hitting my head from the ceiling. I am going in my steam room to relax, not get struck by steam drops. Those who don’t know the difference between wet steam and dry steam should really know the difference before making a decision to buy. Those that want to experience dry steam should go to Equinox gyms, Ritz Carlton, Four Seasons. The ones I visited had open tank models with 11 foot heaters, not the standard 2.5 foot heaters. There is a cloud that lingers when you open the door at these fancy places. At the YMCA I went to the steam just dissapeared and there was barely a cloud. If you keep the door open with dry steam, the steam should keep traveling along the ceiling. This lingering is the biggest way to know if the steam is dry right when you open up the door. Different brands have different wetness factor. Some have under 5%. Some have 20% to 30% wetness that has not been vaporized. For those that have lived in Florida and like it there with the mugginess, you will probably like a wetter steam. Those that enjoy living in California usually prefer the dryer steam.

Dry steam
Dry steam will always feel hotter than wet steam. With wet steam, the walls and temperature from the higher heat index can set the room at 150 degrees. With dry steam, it feels hotter since more water vapor is touching the body than hot air temperature. 150 degree vapor will feel way hotter than a room with less steam that is 150 degrees. Those that want a really intense steam vapor similar to a sweat lodge will want the least amount of moisture in the steam so the moisture is not just heating up the room before the moisture cools and falls to the floor. Also, dry steam that comes out of the steam head is way quieter since it doesn’t have that loud whistle sound from unvaporized water trying to squeeze out of a pressurized tank. Dry steam is much easier to breath in for most people that have compared wet steam to dry steam. For those that have ever been in a steam room with really wet steam, those that have to put a towel over their face since there it burns their nose to breath since the moisture is too hot, this is another complaint that is common. Steam generators over the years have become less dry. I remember back in the day at the YMCA how the steam would shoot out a bunch of water before each session and it was so loud you couldn’t even talk without screaming in the steam room. The dry steam that comes out of the latest open tank types are so quiet I can actually have a conversation without losing my voice. For those that are looking for dry steam, just let me know how dry you want it. You can get super dry steam from 11 foot heaters that have high surface area to vaporize the steam or the standard 2.5 foot heaters that are in most steam generators that most people have in their homes.

Steam Drop Page
When I test for steam drop I always look for cold spots and where the steam drop off is at how many feet. Notice how with wet steam there is a larger area where there are cold spots where the steam has already condensed and is on its way to drop to the floor. With Dry Steam the steam has less weight to it since it does not condense as fast and stays in the air longer. This allows for shorter delay times in steam where you are sitting there with very little steam. With wet steam you will notice that near the steam room floor their is little to no steam. The dry type is more even so you don’t just feel it near the ceiling. I use with my green laser to show the differences in steam drop which is the easiest way to test it. The open tank steam generators that make the dryiest steam should have the slowest steam drop rate and condensation rate.

Steam Generator Pressures: This is for closed tanks only, not open tank models.
The really cheap brands almost always work at low pressure as they are not build good enough to withstand higher pressures and they usually have a lifetime warranty because there is not enough pressure to break anything. The high end steam generators rarely have a lifetime warranty as they work at higher pressures and more wear and tear. The open tank steam generators work at 1 ATA and have the least stress. These are super quiet and give a very dry steam compared to the pressure cooker types. The pressures that steam generators use can range from 50 psig to over 250 psig. The really cheap ones usually are closer to 50 psig.

For those that want to hear the differences between the steam different pressure steam generators, go to my noise complaints page. Remember, with low pressure comes less sound but a wetter steam. Mr. Steam and Thermasol work at higher pressures than those type and have a higher quality of steam when comparing their steam to the pressure type generators. I urge everyone to compare steam from both types and then compare the open tank type. Most people have never experienced the highest quality steam at gyms unless they go to a spa that has one of these types of open steam generators.

Ceiling Height Problems
The people that have the most problems with their steam room are those that have 9 and 10 foot ceilings. If the steam is too wet and has too high of a latent heat index, there will be lots of dripping from the ceiling and the steam will rise above the head and leave the body colder. If the room is not going to be sloped and the ceilings are high I only would use an open tank steam generator that gives a drier steam. With dry steam, it takes a lot longer until the ceiling condenses the steam and starts dripping. With higher ceilings, the temperature above the head can be up to 20 degrees hotter than at the person’s head level. Many people upsize the power of their steam generator to compensate for the higher ceilings. The open tank types if upsizing should make a more uniform steam so the latent heat doesn’t heat up the ceiling and instead fills up the room with the steam instead of condensing it mostly on the ceiling. If the ceiling is not going to be sloped, it is even more important to get steam generator that gives a drier steam.

Steam room maintenance:
The biggest problem is when you have to replace the heaters every few years. Most people never change their heaters and their steam was not as hot as it was when the heaters were new. Poor quality heaters may need to be replaced every 3 to 5 years if using the steam room every day. Steam tanks also will need to be replaced if the cleaning system is not as good. I always prefer steam generators with surgical steel tanks and even the heating elements made of surgical steel. This is way more expensive than the steam generators that have all galvanized steel. Steel that is not as hard as surgical steel can develop more mineral deposits. Also, this is why galvanized heating elements corrode quicker because the mineral buildup destroys the heater. For those that don’t want to replace the heaters 5 or 6 times during the lifetime of the heater, please look for non galvanized steel. A good home steam generator should only need one replacement in a 25 year period.

Sizing Charts – Do not go by them unless you know the steam type you want.
The sizing charts are so out dated. So many people go by the chart and get just enough steam where you don’t feel the need to splash water on the sensors. These charts don’t take into consideration the latent heat index of a room. Someone could buy a 9 kw generator and they really needed a 7.5 kw generator but the salesperson upsized them just to make sure it would make enough steam. All they did was mess up the duty cycle of the steam generator and the steam will be off way more than it will be on because the room is so hot from too much heat created. But, this is better for them than not having enough steam and taking a chance the customer will return their generator. This is not fair for the customer by any means. Some people want more vapor and they still sell them an oversized generator but still recommend the pressure tank type instead of the open tank. Every day someone calls in for a size that was recommended and then when they want dry steam I tell them they need to upsize the generator they think I am telling them wrong. When we did our tests, a 10.5 kw open tank compared to a 10.5 kw closed pressure cooker type will always stay on longer giving more steam than the closed type. People that are concerned about wet or dry steam should not go by the standard charts. This will give customers just enough steam that will be suitable, usually the pressurized types. There are always people that want a more intense steam that will upsize their kilowatt size but I would take precautions unless it is an open tank type. Remember, they are basing the charts on steam with a high latent heat index. If someone buys the wrong size, they can have long steam delays or it can just heat up the room with very little steam.

Drippiness Factor
So, some steam rooms barely have any steam dripping from the ceiling and some have a constant annoying drip that hits everyone in the head as it falls from the ceiling. This is so annoying. The reason why the steam rooms have more drippiness is because the steam generators that spit out more water with the steam vapor causes the vapor to condense and stick to the walls and ceiling. I urge everyone to experience an open tank steam generator that produces a drier steam to experience more vapor and less humidity. If you go to an Equinox gym steam room or the Ritz Carlton, they have virtually no drippiness.
Note: A steam room can have the driest steam but if people keep opening up the door every minute letting cold drafts come in, this will make any steam wet and condense on the ceiling. I always test steam rooms alone and keep the door closed the entire time when doing my field tests.

For those that don’t want a lot of drippiness, I would make sure you understand how low pressure steam generators produce very wet steam. The higher pressure models still have a better steam than the low pressure ones but no where near as dry as the open tank models. The open tank models are much more expensive and don’t rely on a pressurized tank to create steam.

This is the most popular marine grade fan people get that works in a steam room. This is the cheapest one I have found.

The Fan test – another test to see if you have wet steam
If you put a battery powered outdoor weatherproof resistant fan in the steam room and turn it up on high in a wet type steam room it will almost feel like the steam is burning you. If you do this in a room with dry steam, there is very little humidity and I won’t feel that horrible feeling like the wet steam blowing on me at high speeds. Dry steam is much more tolerable. If am going to do a steam session after someone else, usually the steam has already started dripping from the ceiling. A quick fan session quickly condenses all the steam and I can start with a fresh session. The steam quality is actually way better after the stagnant steam has removed. Note: The first time the generator turns on from an empty steam room (after the walls are already hot) it is always going to be dryer but after a few cycles is when the latent heat index kicks in and the walls are hot and the steam is muggy and uncomfortable and the steam sticks to the walls and ceiling causing that drippiness. The best steam is when the room is at it’s hottest and 100% humidity. If the entire room temperature is non even it can give a poor quality steam. The room must be all at one temperature to have the steam that you don’t see the fogginess and is more clear. When the room I cold, the room is very foggy and you probably won’t be able to see across the room unless there is a fan making even temperature.

An open tank steam room at just the right kilowatt size your experience at maximum temperature you will be able to see across the room as it won’t be foggy with dryer steam.

I use my fan to make my steam session super intense. I keep the fan on the entire time. Having a fan with a wind velocity heats my core up over 3 times as fast as just sitting their without the fan. There are many brands of waterproof fans and some are really cheap not as good. Contact me and Ill tell you which size fan to get based on your room size.

This is the most popular marine grade fan people get that works in a steam room. This is the cheapest one I have found.

Avoiding heat going to ceiling:
I urge everyone to get a marine grade inline ventilation if the ceilings are going to be above 7 feet tall. Make sure the fan is 12v so it can work in the steam room. A good waterproof fan should move about 130 cubic feet of steam per minute so the entire steam room has even temperature and vapor throughout. It costs about 30 dollars to hook up about 10 feet of PVC to do this. Make sure the fan is built to work in salty air. Also make sure it has a good rubber seal (that is, it is completely sealed), waterproof, not just water resistant.

Note: If the Heat co-efficient is too high, then having a fan will make the steam worse, please see the sizing chart I have to make sure you get the right kilowatt size steam generator so there won’t be a problem.

Sizing Charts – Do not go by them unless you know the steam type you want.
Most of the sizing charts I’ve studied are so out dated. So many people go by the chart and get just enough steam where you don’t feel the need to splash water on the sensors. These charts don’t take into consideration the latent heat index of a room. Someone could buy a 9 kw generator and they really needed a 7.5 kw generator but the salesperson upsized them just to make sure it would make enough steam. All they did was mess up the duty cycle of the steam generator and the steam will be off way more than it will be on because the room is so hot from too much heat created. But, this is better for them than not having enough steam and taking a chance the customer will return their generator. This is not fair for the customer by any means. Some people want more vapor and they still sell them an oversized generator but still recommend the pressure tank type instead of the open tank. Every day someone calls in for a size that was recommended and then when they want dry steam I tell them they need to upsize the generator they think I am telling them wrong. When we did our tests, a 10.5 kw open tank compared to a 10.5 kw closed pressure cooker type will always stay on longer giving more steam than the closed type. People that are concerned about wet or dry steam should not go by the standard charts. This will give customers just enough steam that will be suitable, usually the pressurized types. There are always people that want a more intense steam that will upsize their kilowatt size but I would take precautions unless it is an open tank type. Remember, they are basing the charts on steam with a high latent heat index. If someone buys the wrong size, they can have long steam delays or it can just heat up the room with very little steam.

For those that know their steam room measurements but want to make sure they are getting the right size kilowatt size and want to make sure it is just the right wattage, take my steam sizing questionnaire. You might get a totally different recommendation from us and we will tell you why we came up with our measurement and why the recommendation on another site could possibly be wrong if you are trying to get the highest quality steam based on your room. The wrong size can mean lots of drippiness and having a very muggy steam.

Important things to review:

​Spitting out water: I show on my steam room complaints page how low psi generators leak water out of the steam head and make a loud high pitch sound that many people complain about after choosing a steam generator. Many people want a quiet one but the sacrifice is having a low psi steam that has lots of condensate. High psi models have a dryer steam but are louder.

Evaportaion rates: This is how long it takes for the lingering steam to fall to the floor. Dryer steam condenses slower since there is less water droplets in the steam. The best way I have found to know if the room is most likely to stay hot but with very little steam is knowing how many gallons of water is used in a 30 minute session. If it’s a 6kw model and it uses 2 gallons instead of 1.5 gallons, you may want to be aware of getting a wet and muggy steam room.

Wrong size: A wrong size steam generator if too powerful will heat the walls and ceiling more than having the right size.
Most people think more is better. This will trip the sensor and make the generator shut off when its too hot and a popular reason people want to return their generator.

Grams per minute: A low psi steam generator will put out more grams of water per minute while a higher psi puts out less water and more steam. The steam with the driest steam fraction produces the least grams of water per second as it has less condensate in the water. I prefer a slow burn type that puts out just say 100 grams of water in 2 minutes instead of a duty cycle that puts out 100 grams in 24 seconds. If too much comes out at once it is more likely to stick to the walls and form condensation on the ceiling (wet steam). The non pressurized steam generators put out the driest steam at low grams per minute. Brownian motion kicks in when the steam come out too much at once. This is the problem that can be avoided by using a marine grade fan suction cupped to the wall.

Chinese Import Steam Generators – why so cheap?
These usually have the lowest psi as higher psi models cost much more to make. The imports like these usually don’t meet all 3 safety requirements…only UL but not CSA and CE. Also they are usually not repairable and they have to be sent in to be fixed. Some generators you just switch out the part at home. Chinese import steam generators do not have interchangeable parts. So, if it breaks, you throw the entire generator away.

Better technology or better steam: Steam Generator Controllers – Some controllers are more expensive than the generator itself. This is for people that want technology. Thermasol has the best controllers of all the brands. They have the best technology. For those that are more about technology should love this brand. Some companies make very high end steam generators but only have a simple controller.

High Pressure vs Low Pressure Steam – Pros and Cons

High Pressure Steam – Cons:
1. You will need a drip pan on most high pressure steam generators
2. You will get a much dryer steam than low psi but it can be super loud
3. It is harder to breath since high pressure steam has a higher vapor molecule size (thicker, heavier steam that falls quicker to the ground, especially if the room has ceramic or other tile where you have to upsize 30% or more. If the room has a glass door and upsizing 40%, the steam coming out may not fall at the same time it is being made and can make the room feel sticky and heavy even if it is a high psi model. Just beware if working with ceramic, glass doors and ceilings over 7 foot tall. This is when most people get it wrong.

Non Pressurized Steam – Pros:
1. A slow burn steam – comes out with a higher dryness fraction
2. Easier to breath and stay in longer (lower latent heat)
3. Heat and steam lingers more at lower levels – Brownian motion takes less effect since there is less condensate in the steam.

Cons:
1. Non pressurized steam generators take longer to first make steam (the same time to boil a kettle of water).
2. They are much more expensive than pressurized models. They usually have dual tanks (boiler and inlet tank).
3. They are usually built to order. It may take 2 weeks while Chinese import steam generators and mass produced models can ship the same day. Many are just assembled in the USA but made in China.

Steam head awareness: If getting a steam generator 12kw and over, make sure it has 2 steam heads. There are some that have one steam head. Two steam heads makes a huge impact on steam quality. If it has one head putting out this much steam it can be very loud and having one steam head can bring more condensate in the steam making it very muggy.

Ventilators in the steam room: Some places with single tank generators usually have ventilators on the ceiling. This can get a lot of the condensate out of the air near the ceiling so the room is less drippy and also helps get the steam out after the session to avoid models and odors. Warmer climates sometimes develop that pink slimy mold on the ceiling and walls but with a ventilator this should stop that problem. So, if the steam is not the dry type, a ventilator should help take out the heavy moisture in the room before the drippiness starts. Also, it is more important to get a ventilator with generators in a ceramic or porcelain tiled room as it helps get the condensate away before it starts dripping. I do not like stuffy steam rooms and I make sure the fan has a high enough cfu for the size of the steam room. Those getting a non pressurized steam generator should not have the need for a ventilator.

Maintenance page:
Some generators are virtually maintenance free while others take a lot of time keeping them up. Some of them you have to change out the elements every few years some you don’t like the surgical steel type. The boiling tanks that are surgical steel you don’t have to add mineral solution after every 90 or so sessions to get the mineral deposits of. Also with perssurized steam you may have to use a drip pan. With non pressure types you don’t really need a drip pan at all unless your building code calls for it. Non pressure cooker types are usually more affordable up front but cost more down the road.

LED Light: The best waterproof Led light I have found for a steam room is not actually made by any of the steam generator companies. Unless someone just wants a little dim light but doesn’t need anything brighter I really like the 2 inch LED models for steamrooms that have over a 3000 Kelvin rating. The better ones have over 700 lumens also and the color temperatures are much warmer than any I have found from steam generator companies. Also it must be IP66 rated also. If the LED has all 3 of these factors it should be a good one. Beware that some companies say they are IP66 rated but not certified.

I like to stay in longer once my core is heated up 3 degrees and create heat shock proteins before my heart rate gets too high and I want to get out. I use a bottle of Boost Oxygen and its is a game changer.

So many people want to stay in longer but can’t since the steam is so heavy and gets peoples heart rates up to quick. Most people don’t realize this when buying a steam generator the type of steam they are going to breath in. Most people are just focused on getting the right size. Wet steam that has too much moisture in the steam is the hardest to breath for most people. I can stay in much longer when the steam is more like vapor. My goal is to keep my hear rate as low as I can as my core is at its hottest. NOTE: I do not use it until I am combusting, not the entire time.

Steam Temperature Variances With Wet Steam
Most steam room temperature variances are way more than 6 degrees that I am used to. I am so used to continuous steam that it is really hard for me to enjoy a non continuous steam that has these long duty cycles with no steam. I don’t like huge fluctuations in steam.

The reason the room temerpature changes from high to a lower temperature so fast is that the steam is a wetter type steam that a lot of the heat is transferred to the walls and ceiling so once the steam generator stops… the steam falls and it cools down quick. Brownian motion is the physics term that explains this. Wetter steam has a higher latent heat and heats up more whatever it touches since the unevaporated water has a higher heat co efficient. The decision to make when buying a steam generator is if you want a steam that is going to be steady throughout the whole session or you want it to fluctuate and get really hot and then cool down.

Also, I urge people to never pour water on the temperature sensor to kick on the steam too soon. This is just going to make the steam come out before it is ready. It’s gonna be even more sticky and heavy. Also this messes the sensor up and can void the warranty.

Dry Steam Temperature Variances
This type of steam doesn’t trip the sensor like wet steam and the steam room temperature should never go above or below 6 degrees

The steam in this room lingers unlike the wetter type that travels more to the ceiling and is more sticky. The heat stays in the air longer instead of heating up the walls and ceiling more. Most people are used to pressurized steam. This is not pressurized steam. It has a totally different feel than pressurized steam. The dryness fraction is much higher. I talk a lot about this on my site for those that don’t know what that is. Dryer steam also has a lower latent heat index since it doesn’t carry as much unevaporated water. The steam quality is so different than what most people have been used to. The best example I have done to explain dry steam and wet steam is on my video where I take a pot of boiling water and show that steam next to a hot skillet where I pour water on it and a huge steam cloud rises to the ceiling. That is dry steam.
So, the decision to make is if you want a steam that is more constant or you want the steam to go off an on with longer duty cycles where the steam cool down significantly in the room.

Whole body steam therapy:
Most people are only getting half body steam therapy. Most people feel the heat at their head and their feet do not get hot since at the floor it is cooler. It is a totally different experience when you heat your core evenly instead of the mostly the upper body. I don’t like when my feet are cold and my upper body is hot. So many people get out of breath too quick when all the steam is at the head. Their heart rate goes up to quick. So I am going to show what most people don’t get to experience.

The way to get a full body experience is to have a water proof fan. I like this one the best. I have it up here on my computer. This is the Kona fan. Its the best one I have found. It suction cups right on the tile on the wall of the steam room. I like to put it in the corner just below the ceiling. For people that have a larger room, sometimes 2 fans can work better. This brings all the heat down from the ceiling, especially if the ceiling is over 7 foot. The fan HELPS bring the room into equilibrium so the floor temperature and ceiling tempurature will be closer. Normally, without the fan, the ceiling is super hot and the floor is cool. But with this, that should not happen.

The Kona fans redistribute the heat making the entire room temperature more even. What it is doing is spreading out the latent heat.

Also, this is different than raising the heat co-efficeint of the room. This is when I take an Attwood fans and have it blowing directly on me. If the fan is not blowing directly on something it changes the latent heat index. If it is blowing on something it effects the heat co-effienct. I always bring my Attwood fan in any steam room I go to. I always bring two actually. It is super intense when 2 are blowing on you. Yes, people every time ask what I am doing over there. I am butt naked and have 2 fans on each side of me. I always share on of the fans and now I end up talking about steam to everyone in the steam room at the spa.

Please note that I do not recommend using the Attwood fan on high when the steam has a lower dryness fraction. Wet steam doesn’t feel as good as dry steam when it is blowing on me. The water particles when blowing fast at my body stings. It is not sustainable for a long session and gets my heart rate up to fast. I only bring my fan to places where I know they have a continuous steam and is not the wet pressurized steam that some generators make.

Attwood fan and steam – raising heat co-efficient:
I put the Attwood fan either behind my back or on the sides of me. The faster the steam blows on my body the hotter it feels. It makes the steam several times as intense as just sitting there without the fan.
This is different than the Kona fan how it distributes the latent heat. The Kona fan blows the steam from the ceiling down to the floor when I suction cup the fan on the wall next to the ceiling.

I do not use this fan when the steam is a wet type steam. It doesn’t not feel good. I do not like heavy muggy steam blowing on my body. The best way to use the Attwood fan is first having the Kona fan bring the steam stuck at the ceiling down to the seating level. If you use the Kona fan and all the steam is on the ceiling then the Attwood fan is not going to have as much effect. Also, using the Attwood fan exponentially increase my heat shock proteins.

I urge people to compare the steam generators that have a low and high dryness fraction other wise if the wrong type is bought, the steam is just gonna feel muggy.

Ceiling Height Affects Steam Quality
This really is the biggest problem when helping size someone’s steam generator.
Most sizing charts just give the kw size based on on cubic feet and the material of the room. If someone has a 250 cubic foot room, with an SEVEN foot ceiling and 250 cubic foot with a NINE foot ceiling, the sizing chart will recommend a 7.5kw generator for both people. I also want to say that with some brands, if there is a 250 cubic foot room, for example, I would recommend a 9kw if the steam is from certain pressurized brands. The best way to find out if you are buying the right size which the chart doesn’t tell you is to ask how many gallons of steam the generator makes in a 30 minute session. If they say approximately 2 gallons for the size size generator that the other one gives off which is 1.5 gallons, you know that you will have to upsize or downsize based on the type of steam it is giving.

Some generators spit out water right when it turns on. This is a sign that the steam is from a pressure cooker type that has a lower pressure than the higher pressure models. If the steam is too wet, it has to make more of it to compensate for the steam that is sticking to the ceiling and walls. So you might need to upsize if you want a dense steam in the room.

I urge anyone buying a steam generator that has a ceiling over 7 foot tall and especially if using ceramic or natural stone, to make sure the steam is dryer from the start, meaning it has a lower latent heat and a higher dryness fraction.

Ceramic and porceiline are like a sponge, especially when the steam is wetter. I show on my other videos how wet steam interacts with ceramic and porceiline. With generators that make wetter steam, it is constantly dripping from the ceiling… hitting me on my bald head… Its stuffy feeling. I don’t like it. I would do some research on the different types of steam so you don’t get the wrong generator. If the ceiling can be lowered to 7 foot it makes it so much easier to get the best steam quality. If over 7 foot, that is when Kona fans and a steam generator that produces a dryer steam should be considered.

9 foot ceilings in steam rooms:
About 1 in 20 people that call me have a 9 foot ceiling. It is not good but it is workable if the right precautions are taken when sizing a steam generator and using other protocols to compensate for the high ceiling.

About 40% of the steam will be above the head normally when the ceiling is 9 foot tall. Also, I want to say that if the ceiling is that high, I would not recommend a LOW pressurized type steam generator. This is gonna make the steam rise and stick, especially if the tiles are porciline, ceramic, or natural stone.

Those who get a dryer steam should not have the drippiness like they would with a wetter type steam. If I had a 9 foot ceiling I would put 2 Kona fans on the walls to help bring that steam down so it doesn’t stay above the head. The generators I recommend would be a higher pressure higher psi steam generator or a non pressurized model with the lowest latent heat index.

If getting a steam generator and not using the fan, there may still be a problem since even if the steam is higher quality, it is still going to rise to high and not be a pleasant experience. Brownian motion takes a huge effect when the ceilings are higher unlike 7 or 8 foot ceilings where the steam doesn’t rise so high.

So, if you have a 9 foot ceiling, I urge you to get a dryer steam rather than upsizing a wetter type to a higher kilowatt size. This is what so many people do and end up getting a steam quality that is very low.

Steam room ceilings at 8 foot:
An 8 foot ceiling is actually the most common size. About 20% of the steam is going to rise over the head due to 12 extra inches over the 7 foot ceiling the steam generators are sized at on the sizing charts. So, just say the temperature is set to 140, then the heat will rise and the body will not be at 140 unless there is a marine grade fan blowing the steam down. DC marine grade fans are used to bring the steam from the ceiling down to the floor. I do not like going in a steam room over 7 foot tall if there is no fan. My legs and feet stay colder while my upper body is hotter. I call this half body steaming. Those who have a Kona fan may never go back to using a steam room without the fan once they experience full body steam therapy, which just a fan makes the difference.

It is hard for me to heat my core up in a timely manner if the ceiling is 8 foot tall without the fan. Many people spend about 10 extra minutes each session trying to heat their core while it would be more enjoyable and take less time if the steam in the room was more evened out. The goal is to fight Brownian motion.. to not let it have its effect.

I urge those who have an 8 foot ceiling to research the Kona fan and learn the differences between dry and wet steam and how each type of steam has an effect on the body and how it sticks to the walls depending on its dryness fraction and latent heat. If the wrong type of steam is used in an 8 foot steam room, the walls can act like a sponge for the sticky heavy steam or the steam can linger in the air longer if it has less moisture in the steam.

Kona Fans and Steam Rooms
I always even out the latent heat index of the steam room by having a fan suction cupped to the wall near the ceiling to distribute the latent heat index and bring the steam down from the ceiling to the floor. This is not the same type of fan used to increase the heat co-efficient of the steam, which is the opposite of a wind chill factor.

The biggest problem without the fan is that steam rises due to Brownian motion. Those with ceramic or porceiline tiles or natural stone may notice the biggest problem since these materials act like sponges and cause the steam to wick to the tiles. A dryer steam is much less likely to wick as much since there is less water in the steam that is unevaporated so it doesn’t stick as much. The Kona fan is the best fan I have found. It is also the quietest when comparing it to other fans at the same speed.

You really don’t need a fan if the ceiling is 7 foot but if 8 foot an over, it can be a game changing experience. It is not enjoyable when I go in a room that has a high ceiling and the most of the hotter steam is above my head and my legs and feet are not getting the steam therapy I want. When the Kona fan is turned on, it is when I experience full body steam therapy.

I want to also let people know that if the Kona fan is used with a low pressurized steam generator that makes wetter steam, all the fan is going to do is blow down muggy steam and it is not going to feel like a steam room with a high dryness fraction and a low latent heat. So, make sure you know the differences before choosing a steam generator brand and size.

Which steam is the easiest to breath?
Many people don’t know the difference between types of steam in a steam room. They just think steam is steam. Before choosing a steam generator, I urge people to understand the difference between easy to breath steam and harder to breath steam.

Steam that has a high latent heat index can be hard to breath in for a long time for some people. When there is too much water suspended in the air in the steam, this can be hard on the lungs and I personally can’t stay in for as long as I want when the steam is like this.

When the steam room is using a low pressurized steam generator, there is more unevaporated water floating in the steam. This is the type of steam that when I use my fan it stings. It also can burn my nose when I breathe it. This is the steam that makes the wall so hot that it is super uncomfortable to lean my back on the wall without a towel behind my back.

Also, if the wrong size generator is used in the steam room, this can make steam too quickly adding too much latent heat in the steam. This is why it is important to not oversize, especially if getting a pressurized type generator. If getting a pressurized steam generator, the ones that make a higher quality steam with less water evaporated in it are the ones that put out steam at a higher psi. The generators that can go to higher psi’s are also usually more expensive than the lower end pressure type models.

So, if someone is planning on staying in longer than 15 to 20 minutes and wants to heat their core temperature 3 degrees and stay in for 15 minutes once the body has reached that temperature, having the wrong type of steam makes it really hard, especially if trying to create heat shock proteins. Really think about how long you want your average session to be. This can make the difference on which brand of steam generator to choose.

​Note about wet steam with a high condensate:
The generators that make wet steam will typically use about 25% more water than the dry types. So, the average residential steam room uses about 2 gallons of water for the pressure cooker types. The types that make dry steam use about 1.5 gallons of water. The extra half gallon of water is what sticks to the walls and ceiling and is usually what causes the steam cloud to fall to the floor quicker between duty cycles causing high fluctuations in the steam room temperature. I prefer a steam room that never goes up or down in temperature 6 degrees. So, I hope everyone has an understanding of what wet steam is. Also, for those that haven’t seen my video of me showing wet steam from a pot of boiling water next to a hot skillet, this is a good comparison video to watch.

So, if anyone wants to have a preference over wet steam with more duty cycles or a slow burn continuous steam which is one other end of the spectrum, I urge people to understand the difference before choosing a steam generator.

Note on Dry Steam (low condensate):
Dry steam looks different than wet steam on the walls and ceiling in a steam room. It also has a different feel. I can go any steam room and can tell if the steam is a wet steam from a pressurized steam generator or its a dry steam from a non pressurized model.

Dry steam has a lower cluster size. When it sticks to the walls on just say ceramic tile, it sticks there for a lot longer before it clusters up and drips down the wall to the floor. Also with dry steam the steam is not constantly dripping from the ceiling like it does like wet steam that has a higher un-evaporated water ratio in the steam.

Also with dry steam, Brownian motion doesn’t have as much effect as there is less water that carry the heat causing the heat to rise to the ceiling like the wetter type steams.

So, if anyone goes to a steam room and you know what to look for and you prefer a dryer steam, I hope this helps show you what to look for. The generators with the driest steam fraction are not pressurized. They are a slow burn and instead of having duty cycles of on and off times, they make steam more continuously to keep the temperature in the room within 6 degrees of what it is set at. Back in the day, there were no steam generators that could keep the steam that continuous.

Loud Steam Generators
Some steam generators are whisper quiet and some are very loud. Many people choose a steam generator before knowing what it sounds like. Once it is installed it is usually too late. People call me up telling me the noise is so loud it is giving them a headache. They want to return it. I ask them which brand they have and they are like I don’t know. After hearing them complain and want to return it.. it ends up they didn’t even get it from me. I always ask people if they are concerned if the generator is loud. So many people want the model they researched and rarely try it.. they are just comparing based on specs.

If concerned about loudness first find out what the psi of the generator is if it is a pressurized steam generator. The higher the pressure the louder it is but the good thing is if it is higher pressure it comes out dryer and less muggy. The quieter pressure cooker steam generators work at a lower psi but the steam comes out wet and sticky. It is probably going to be more drippy of the ceiling that you would want. I urge people to compare the pressure cooker types to the non-pressurized steam generators. The non pressurized models are more expensive than most people want to pay but they are the quietest.

Also, the type of tile can make a difference to. Most people get ceramic but those who are concerned about sound might want to research taladakte. This can absorb much more sound than ceramic or porceiline.

How to lower the latent heat index of the steam room:
Many people get a steam generator and don’t have a preference on what time of steam they like. Some people want to stay in longer and some for a very short time. Too much latent heat in the steam is what I try to avoid. This is from the unevaporated water that is suspended in the steam that makes it heavy and sticky.

The water in the steam makes it feel hotter even when it is at the same temperature of a dryer steam that is more gassy that floats in the air unlike the wetter type that sticks to the ceiling and walls making the steam room feel more like a dry sauna than a steam room.

If using ceramic or porceiline tiles, this will act like a sponge and 30% of the room will need to be upside. This will cause for choosing a larger size generator. Ive found that it is even more important to start with a steam generator that makes a dryer steam if the around 30% of the steam is going to be absorbed into the walls. If using natural stone then the room size needs to be doubled. It is tricky to get a good steam quality when using natural stone especially when the ceiling is over 7 foot.

So, to avoid the drippiness of the ceiling and having MORE of the steam absorbed into the walls, I urge people to compare the high psi steam generators to the low psi ones if concerned about the steam quality.

If the room has a high ceiling and the steam is too wet, it is going to rise to the ceiling and if someone gets a water proof fan to blow the steam down, it might not feel good since many people don’t like heavy steam blown down on them. Also, if using a fan to blow directly on me, wet steam does not feel good. Dry steam is much more comfortable when I am trying to stay in to heat my core up 3 degrees and Im trying to create heat shock proteins.

I urge people to research non-pressurized steam generators if concerned with having too high of a latent heat index for the steam room. If the walls are going to act like sponges and the ceiling is over 7 foot, this can be the time to make sure you are researching the right steam generator for your type of room.

Wait times for steam to kick back on (long vs short duty cycles):
Some generators have duty cycles that have longer periods of time between when the steam comes out. Other generators are continuous types that the duty cycles where there is no steam coming out is very short. The shortest duty cycles are the ones that have a 6 degree variance in steam room temperature.

So, if the steam gets 6 degrees hotter than what it is set at then it will turn off. And if it goes under 6 degrees than what it is set at then it will turn back on. Most of the steam generators that are pressurized with a single tank are going to have the longest duty cycles while the dual tank models have a shorter duty cycle. The steam that comes from non-pressurized steam generators is totally different. These are a slow burn type steam meaning that it stays on longer instead of putting out the steam in bursts. For example, if a pressurized single tank model is putting out 100 grams of steam in 24 seconds… a non pressurized model might put out the same 100 grams in 2 minutes.

Pressurized steam come out a lot at once so it can have a tendency to be very wet and since more is coming out at once it can rise very quickly to the ceiling causing it to be drippy.

So, if deciding on which steam generator to get, I urge people to know how long they want to stay in the steam room for as the duty cycles can affect the time you can tolerate a session for. If there are long duty cycles where there are a few minutes going by where my core temperature is cooling down, then it is going to increase my session time to get the results I want. My goal is go heat my core up 3 degrees and sustain it for a period of time. I personally don’t like waiting and letting my body cool down like the type found at most gyms.

So, with the dryer steam continuous models, the wait times are very short. This is the type that makes my heart rate go up steadily instead of quickly with bursts of heavier steam and then my heart beat gets lower and then gets rises again with each duty cycle.. This is something I urge people to research about before choosing a steam generator.

Getting the Wrong Size Steam Generator – Too Big or Small
I would say about half the people get the wrong size.. either upsizing too much or getting too small of a kilowatt size.

Usually it is the people that upsize too much, especially if they are upsizing due to having ceramic or porceline tile. If having those two types of tiles and there is a glass door and a high ceiling, this is when many people run into problems.

Some people think that having a higher kilowatt size and upsizing it to just make sure they are going to get enough steam is going to be better.. well actually it’s not. The room gets to 100% humidity too quick. The steam sticks to the walls. The ceilings start dripping. The steam feels heavy and hard to breath.

The steam should be in equilibrium. The best is when it is made at the same speed it is falling to the floor.

Also if getting the wrong size to large it will increase the duty cycle time where there is no steam. So, if it gives off too much steam at once, the temperature sensor will get hotter quicker and then there can be a longer duty cycle where there is no steam. Many people think if they go a size larger they will get more steam. It is just the opposite.

So, I urge people to size the generator not just on the sizing charts but by ceiling heights… if there are any fans going to be installed on the walls… how heigh the bench is… and possibly several other factors based on the construction of the steam room.

Steam Rooms – Raising Heat Co-efficient With Fan
I like my steam room room very intense. I use this fan to raise the heat
co-efficient on my body usually on the highest level and lower it to level 1 for a short time after my core temperature has been heated over 3 degrees.
Most people don’t know when their core temperature has reached this level and that is when the rectal thermometer comes in handy. I know since I have been doing this so long when my temperature reaches that point but most people might find the rectal thermometer handy when first learning about heat shock proteins and controlling heat co-efficeints.

Be are that this is not the same type of fan I use to lower the latent heat index of the steam at the ceiling of the steam room. That is the fan I suction cup on the wall near the ceiling to bring the steam near the ceiling to the floor.

When the fan blows on me, it’s the opposite of a wind chill factor. The fan gets my core temperature up nearly twice as fast as if I didn’t have the fan blowing on me. When people ask me how long my steam session is, I time the session in a 2 stage time. The first stage is JUST getting my core up to 3 degrees over my normal body temperature. Having the fan shaves off a good portion of the beginning time it would normally take so I can have more time to do my therapy.

Also it is very hard for me to stay in a steam room once my core temperature is 3 degrees higher when the steam is wet and muggy. I am so focused on getting steam therapy and wet steam goes against what I am trying to do.

When I bring my oxygen bottle in the steam room when the steam is wet, I go through PROBABLY twice as much oxygen than I would if in a dry steam room where the room is the same temperature and still at 100% humidity but way less unevaporated water in the steam.

So, I urge people to really understand the differences in the different types of steam qualities if trying to choose a steam generator. I have no problem with low psi pressure cooker types if someone just wants to warm up really quick but for taking it to the next level, I prefer non pressurized model or if choosing a pressurized type, the higher psi ones create a MUCH different steam than the lower pressure types.

Super Hacking a Steam Room Session
This is how I turn a 30 minutes steam session into less than 10 minutes. Sometimes I need to hurry since I don’t always have time to do a long session so I need to get my core temperature 3 degrees higher quickly and as comfortable as I can.

I cannot do this hack if the steam is too wet. It must have a very high dryness fraction otherwise it will not feel good and sting me. Steam that has too much water droplets in it stings me when it hits you from a fan. So, what I do is I put 2 fans next to me that raise the heat co-efficient by nearly 4. I also bring down my Kona fan and let it blow directly on me.

When I go to different steam rooms I always bring my little power generator with me. I just plug it in and suction cup it to the wall.

When I go to a public steam room and set my 2 side fans and my top fan people stare at me. They have no idea what I am about to do. Everyone stops talking in there. But once they see my setup they ask and nearly every time someone wants to try it.

Those who have steam rooms at their home who never learn about steam biohacking may want to learn how to control latent heat indexes, heat co-efficients, and dryness fractions. Also, most people that get into steam biohacking learn about the effects of having steam directly hit Himalayan salt rocks and fresh rolling pin rolled eucalyptus leaves, not just the oil that most people use but actual leaves. They have to be rolled by a rolling pin first and that is how all the constituents come out in the air. I hope this helps.

Steam Generators – Made in the USA???
So, I am not going to go in detail but I will say that there are some brands out there that claim to be made in the USA but just import their parts from other places and just assemble them here. I have nothing against things made in China but I know what to look for to make sure it is safe and not going to be a problem down the road.

What I need to know is what certifications each steam generator has and who inspected it.

There are several different ones and some have more than 1 safety certification. I want to know if it has CE, UL and CSA. Many just have a single ETL certification.

So, when people want to know what the warranty is, a good way of knowing how well it was built and how long it is going to hold up is knowing what type of components they are using.

Some pressure reducers don’t hold up for many years and they need to be replaced. The biggest complaint is when people have to send in their unit to be fixed. There are some generator brands that they can be serviced at home. With some, you have to replace the entire generator if it breaks. These are usually the ones that end up costing people a lot of money down the road since they can’t just replace the broken part.

So, if someone doesn’t want a Chinese import steam generator which is seems that most people usually want since for some reason those are the types they are researching. The ones I find that have the least problems down the road are the ones made in Canada and the USA. Remember, look for UL, CSA, and CE listings and if they have more of these certifications, I would trust that over a brand that just has an ETL certification.

7 Foot Ceilings – Steam Rooms
Very few people have a 7 foot ceiling in their steam room. Most people have an 8 foot ceiling on average and maybe about 1 in 20 people have a 9 foot ceiling. Those with ceilings between 8 to 9 feet may want to be careful so they don’t get a steam with a high latent heat.

Steam that is too wet coming out, especially with pressurized steam generators, can have higher water in the steam making the steam stick to the ceiling and walls instead of lingering in the air.

The higher the ceiling like on those with 8 foot and higher ceilings might want to lower their ceiling to 7 foot but if they can’t then the next best option is first starting with a steam generator that puts out a dryer steam fraction. Then after that taking a fan and suction cupping it to the wall next to the ceiling to bring down the steam so the whole room can be in equilibrium.

Just so people know… most steam generators are rated at 7 foot. On the sizing charts, someone might have a 250 cubic feet with a 8 foot ceiling and 250 cubic feet with a 7 foot ceiling. I strongly urge people not to upsize to a larger size generator to compensate for around 20%. Many people get 2 sizes larger when they have a 9 foot ceiling. Those who get the fan instead of this to compensate for it will see what I am talking about.

6KW Steam Generators – What To Avoid
This is the size that so many people get messed up. Most people that actually need a 6 kw generator are upsizing to a 7.5 kw size and run into all the problems that I show in my videos.

The problem is that those who are need a 6 kw size are almost always below 175 cubic feet before upsizing due to ceramic or porcelain tiles and almost always have a glass door which adds another 10% to upsizing. The biggest problem is that those that need a 6kw generator almost always have a ceiling above 7 foot.

So, when you figure in the higher ceiling, the glass door, and the 30% upsize for ceramic tiles… most people are getting a generator that is never bringing the steam room into homeostasis.

The problem is that people are getting ENOUGH steam but not the quality of steam they are looking for.

Steamrooms under 175 cubic feet are the ones that I get the most complaints about with too much steam wicking to the walls… drippiness from the ceiling.. and all the steam above peoples heads.

Most people that have these small steam rooms are usually looking for cheaper steam generators unlike the people that call in that need a 12 or 13 kilowatt generator.. they usually want a higher end generator that gives out dryer steam.

ok so.. if someone has a 120 cubic foot room and after upsizing to get a 6 kw generator… the low pressure types that most people buy are going to make steam that most people don’t want. Most people don’t like heavy steam. They want a dense steam cloud but not the heavy sticky type.. the type that just feels muggy.

I talk a lot about latent heat that steam from pressure type steam generators carry. The more unevaporated water in the steam the more latent heat it carries.

Also, when the room is small like this.. many people go for the high psi pressure steam generators.. these can be super loud. I prefer a non pressurized steam generator for any steam room that is under 250 cubic feet.

I urge people to go to different spas and try pressurized steam versus non pressurizes steam. I have a list of hotels and spas and gyms that have both types of steam.

I can walk into a steam room and within 1 second when the steam hits my face know if it is a wet or dry steam. I urge people to know the differences. So, in order to develop a preference. Most people buy a steam generator and don’t even know or don’t have a preference yet. Please… experience both types so you know what you like.. especially if buying a smaller generator.. the smaller the room the more the differences in steam quality is noticed.

Also… if you do get a 7.5 kw when you need a 6kw generator… you are going to have duty cycles that are way longer and you might be sitting there for several minutes with no steam but just a hot room that feels like a sauna.

Also… with the extra size up you the steam since it is producing more grams of steam per second than the 6 kw.. it can rise quicker to the ceiling and stick to the ceiling instead of filling the room up with steam.. you might notice beds of water dripping down the walls unlike having the right size.

The best scenario is when the steam is coming out of the generator at the same speed the steam is falling to the ground. If too much comes out at once then it will trip the high limit of the temperature sensor and it will think the room is full of steam when it’s not.

Also, if the 7.5 kw is used when a 6kw should be used, the steam can feel heavy and sticky.

It is hard for some people to get it right when choosing between a 6 and 7.5 kw generator. PLEASE take the sizing quiz and it should help.

Sizing Charts – Steam room Showers – Generators

Some companies will say you need a larger size when you really don’t. Many people will use a sizing chart and it will say you need a 7.5 kw generator… and another will say you need a 9kw. and one company says you need a 6 kw.

So many people are confused but there is no reason to be confused once you know how to read them. So, if the generator from a company is a low psi steam generator, it is probably going to put out 2 gallons of water per 30 minute session instead of 1.5 gallons.. so the chart might say you need a 9 kw….

The other brand might say you need a size down… a 7.5 kw… since it is a brand that uses a higher psi pressure cooker type steam generator.. this Should put out less water in the steam and that is why you need need a 9kw.

A non pressurized brand will say that you need a 6kw.. and people get so confused when I tell someone you need a 6 kw and they don’t believe me since another company said they needed a 9kw. So.. once I explain why different sizing charts tell you different sizes then they understand
When I size a generator, I don’t just go by cubic feet and tile type.. I want to know how tall your ceiling is (this may need you need a fan suction cupped on the wall to bring the latent heat down).. maybe you have a 7.5 foot or an 8 foot ceiling.
… I wanna know how long you wanna be in the steam room for. Some brands have more water in their steam and you can’t stay in as long. Some are drier and it’s more comfortable and relaxing.

Ceramic vs Porcelain vs Natural Stone in Steam Rooms
Ok, so most people.. I’d say about 80% of the people have ceramic and the rest have porcelain or natural stone and what’s that called… Tadelakt.. yea.. I am hearing about tadelakt all the time right now for people that are looking to use tadelakt instead of ceramic.

Each one of these material has a different rate on how steam sticks to them.

Based on all my comparisons with different tiles, to counter the absorption rates with certain tiles like ceramic or natural stone…… starting with a dryer steam with less moisture in it will help so that the high absorptive tiles won’t act like a sponge as much since there is less water in the air to wick to it. Many people have tiles like ceramic and once they get their generator they notice the dripping and the steam sticking to the walls. I don’t have a problem with ceramic tile.. it’s the type of steam that should be considered with working with tiles that you have to add 30% to the room size to get the correct size generator.

So. if building a steam room and you are concerned about the steam quality, the type of steam and the tile type can make a difference in the type of steam quality it will have.

Steam Room Floor vs Ceiling Temperatures – Problems
So.. most people never know what full body steam therapy is… their head is really hot depending on
how high their ceiling is… their feet are cold since all the steam is higher.

The Kona fan helps lower the latent heat index at the top of the room and bring it down to help make the whole room the same temperature. Once people try this they tell me they can never go back. Also.. I do not recommend using a fan with steam that is too wet, especially from pressurized steam generators working at low psi that puts out a lot of water in the steam. I do not like to feel wet muggy steam hitting my body.